Wednesday, October 20, 2010

Buenos Aires

I have not written a single blog post since I arrived in Buenos Aires because I did not know where to start.  The 1st week flew by in a blaze of confusion-  including my air port pick up forgetting me, losing my camera on the bus, cursing myself for not learning Spanish, and general personal growth and shit like that:P

After about a week of renting a room out in the suburbs and traveling an hour to work and back, I made an impulse decision to check into a hostel a block from work. So far, so good. I definitely feel less isolated, although the lack of personal space and having to share a room with (snoring) males takes some getting used to! I have met some interesting people on the hostel, although most travelers are all couples or males- I have never felt more female or more single in my life! I am reluctantly looking for a room to rent around my work area, although being literally a block away from work with a clean bed every night and surrounded by people for all over; is hard to give up. No idea if I will be able to stand 5 weeks of this but I am trying not to worry too much!

Spanish classes are progressing really slowly, and while I feel like I am not making any progress whatsoever, my tutor swears I am. This trip definitely is not what I expected, and although I am sick of getting ripped off all the time because I dont speak the language, tired of looking over my shoulder for safety reasons, over living out of a suitcase, and dying for my comfort zone- I am growing as a person. I hope.

It is difficult to be surrounded by travelers all the time- partly because everyone leaves after a few days, and also I myself am dying to see more of the country. I almost wish I was spending more time traveling and less working, but the thought of trekking across Argentina by myself with no Spanish is too exhausting. More to come. 

Saturday, October 9, 2010

No Hablar Espanyol

One of my worst habits in life is giving up on something too fast if I find it too hard. I have done it a millions times- it started back when I was a kid and I wanted a bike.  I saved up my pocket money, bought the bike I wanted, and attempted to learn to ride it. After a few weeks of unsuccessful and embarrassing falls in the Bangkung Park, I decided I could 'kind of balance' and that was that.

Later in life it was driving classes (some exploitation of the corrupt Malaysian system and BAM! I had a license but could not drive;) A few years ago it was Spanish evening classes at uni. I got it into my head that it would be fun to learn a new language, convinced my parents it would look good on my CV (that excuse always wins!) and signed up. 12 weeks of 2 hour classes and I had nothing to show for it. Do not ask me what I did in class- I think I spent most of my time stressing about essays that were due.

So when I arrived in Buenos Aires Internaional Airport on Wednesday the 6th of October and felt completely lost, I really had no one to blame but myself. My air-port pick up failed to arrive, leaving me stranded with no Spanish, no change for a phone call, and no spirit. After many hours, a few 'Kristine internal pep talks', and some action, I made some calls and got a remesis (taxi which you pay for in advance) to my accomodation.

The room I am renting is in a lovely old European style building that is gorgeous but falling apart slightly. The landlord speaks a little English, there are many ku ka ra chas/ cockroaches, and the toilet system cannot handle toilet paper so you have to dispose of your toilet paper in the trash, but for now it is home.

My 1st 3 days have flown by in a whiz of Subway rides, maps, taxi rides, and hunger pangs- I still have not worked up the nerve to order in Spanish! Buying a sim card was an experience in itself, made worse by the fact they tried to rip me off and I got the address of my office wrong! But I have arranged for private Spanish classes, I know ONE subte/ subway line now, and I am hoping everything else will fall into place!

As I rode the Subte home today after a miserable afternoon of wandering through the city by myself, I was delighted to overhear a conversation between two boys in English. Shamelessly eavesdropping, I hoped they were fellow travelers with whom I could exchange stories. Unfortunately the conversation consisted of "how many beers can you have before you get wasted/ pissed/ happy etc" and "girls pee on the streets too- i have totally seen it, BRO!" Some things are universal I guess.

Thursday, October 7, 2010

Florida: Sun, Surf and Mickey!

As I stepped out of Orlando International Airport to the pick-up area, I heard an extremely familiar and comforting sound- fans. The whir as blades of metal hit against each other is something that I have unexpectedly missed. Australians just don't do ceiling fans! The humidity also hit me with brute force as I ventured further out from the air-conditioning of the airport. I have to say, it was nice to have a blast of hot air as opposed to tensing one's entire body in anticipation of the winter chill as you step out.

After a blissful hot shower and 10 hour slumber, I basked in the solitude of having the house to myseld that 1st day- one week in a dorm had put a serious dent in my 'Kristine time' allocation! Lazed about all day and played with my cousin's GORGEOUS golden lab- think Marley and Me but with golden eyes (they suspect a hint of silver lab). I occasionally looked out the window and was always slightly surprised to see sunlight and palm trees- I really don't think I am destined to live somewhere with any sort of winter!

I seriously think that grocery shopping in a new country is one of the best ways to get to know about the culture- I followed my cousins shipping and was completely overwhelmed- there was one entire aisle just for yogurt alone- low fat/ fat free/ less fat/ full fat! I would take about 2 hours to shop if i lived here!

Nothing extremely eventful happened in the next few days- I won't more you anymore with details- aside from recovering my appetite

Weekend in San Fran

As I sipped my Pinot Grogio at the Ritz Carlton golf course while taking in the breathtaking view of the Pacific Ocean, I could not help but feel grateful. I was at Half Moon Bay, a little seaside town about 45 minutes from SFC. The sun was shining down. I stretched out on a deck chair and lazily observed a wedding rehearsal. Life was good.

My Saturday consisted of coffee and brunch at Tartine bakery a local favorite (which was not as good as I had hoped), a lovely drive up to Half Moon Bay, drinks at the Ritz, an indulgent lunch of fish and chips, calamari, and tempura vegetable- the 1st veges I had all week btw!

Had an amazing night out in The Castro, where i thoroughly enjoyed cheesy 80s dance music, cheap drinks, and the pleasure of not having my ass grabbed on the dance floor! I was treated very nicely because I was very short, small and female compared to most of the other occupants . Topped a great Saturday off with a  late night taco, and once again enjoyed not being leered at, as would normally be the case at 3 am in a late night eatery.

My last day in SF was just as lovely, I spent more time with my high school friend at the Ferry Building (which is WAY better than Fisherman's Wharf btw!) and then met a few other friends for dinner in the city. Went to bed early- a week was the perfect amount of time.

Friday. Summer of Love

Dragged myself out of bed early to meet a friend, missing my re hydrating bottle of water that was confiscated at the club the night before. Had a shower, took some panadol and coffee and went back to bed for a nap- yes, yes i am a grandma! Spent the day with my friend on the hop on hop off bus, had brunch at The Haight, which is SFs version of Brunswick- so many hipsters you could cry... or die! Was fun doing the tourist thing and NOT being alone for once. Riding over the Golden Gate Bridge on an open top bus on a foggy day was very different from walking over it on a sunny day. Cold and mysterious, you can't see in front of you. It is like in the cartoons when the cloud comes to life and opens its mouth and moves towards you and you get 'swallowed'.

Dragged my roommate out for dinner at a nearby japanese sushi place before cocktails at The Swig, a place that reminded me of (and made me miss) Carlton Club back home. Bought a very cheap bottle of smirrdoff from the liquor store
"You look 17"
"I am 24. Do you need ID?"
"Hell yeah honey!  Hmm... ok you ok then. Go on then. You look so young, be careful!"

LOL! Had a fun quiet night playing foozeball and pool at the hostel and met some cool people. I picked up on the slight aussie accent from across the room, this Kiwi guy who has been in Sydney for 2 years. I almost asked him to say "G'day Mate" for me, just because I was nostalgic! I was falling off my bar stool, and jarring awake as the cues hit the balls, so i went to bed at 2 am. A nice day.

Day Four: Coming out into town

One of the many downsides to staying at a hostel (and trust me, there are upsides too!) is that breakfast is not provided. Spent a good chuck of the morning attempting to make my own pancakes, and then was picked up by a lovely friend of a friend. She gave me her local San Franciscan Two Cents Tour of the city, which was  awesome-I got to see twin peaks, the famous windy lambart st, and bufallos at the golden gate park!

I enjoyed a totally touristy lunch of chili corn cobe and iced tea at a 50's style diner (I felt just like Betty in in Archie Comics.. but, you know, browner;) and then bravely decided to walk the two or three miles to Chinatown. The walk was not far but OMFG, the HILLS!! My calves were killing me by the time I got to Grace Cathedral. I am not sure if there is an iPhone app for avoiding hills in SF (still not a smartphone user:(, but if they have one for gay guys in the 3 mile radius, they really should have one that will save you the hill walking!!

Met two friends and proceeded to go to an 18 plus gay club called The Crib- had pre drinks at the hotel room, drove to castro, had dinner, and then they boys checked google maps on their iphones and realised the club was downtown! so we took the muni back. met some cool lesbians while in line, who kindly offered us a swig of their bacardi which we denied. security to get in the club was super tight- they checked every single zip and compartment and had no problem reaching into bags and rummaging through stuff. "Wow, you get felt up even before you get in!" was someones very positive take on this, but truth be told I wish i was dressed more appropriately.

The atmosphere in the club was intense- a red bull kept the jet lag at bay as we danced to bad r and b music- there were quite a few straight people there as I soon found out. the strip contest was hilarious because of the MC- a blonde tranny who sounded black- classics like "I was born Jewish but raised Catholic because it was cheaper" and "Girl, who's handbag is that? Don't you know this is a bad ass club?!" She made my night:) Took a cab home, overtipped the driver because I was so happy to be back safe, and went to bed.  

Friday, September 17, 2010

Alcatraz Adventure

As I walked down the main cell block that the old prisoners called 'Broadway', I can feel the hair on the back of my arms stand up. I can hear the echo of my own footsteps. I can practically smell the sweat and taste the desperation of the inhabitants of Alcatraz.

In my opinion,the main difference between actual travel and reading about travel are the details. One can spend hours reading about a place, the sights, the sounds- but until you are actually standing there and breathing in the same air as the keen tourists who came before you, you have not truly experienced a place.

Day three in San Francisco was jam packed- breakfast with a friend in Dobuce Triangle, delicious pho in Chinatown, and then a good 30 minute walk to Pier 39, where we proceeded to wait in line for half an hour to have a picture taken against a fake Alcatraz background before we finally got to board the ferry to the island.


Truth be told, I knew close to nothing about the nations maximum security island prison before I stepped unto it. Before we started the tour, we were told that the last ferry to depart Alcatraz was at 615 and "everyone has to be on that ferry. You can not stay on the island." Who would want to spend the night in an abandoned maximum security prison?! People truly are odd.

The 90 minute audio tour transported me back in time as we walked through the cell blocks, viewed the dining hall, and enjoyed the view of San Francisco city- yes, the view from the prison is one of the best of the city skyline- almost like its taunting the prisoners. All that lay between them and freedom was a few miles of freezing Pacific Ocean (and armed guards!)

After all that walking down memory lane, I was more than ready for a delicious dinner of much- awaited clam chowder at North Beach, the Italian district of SF. Although I could not help feel a little homesick for Papaginos on Lygon, I truly enjoyed the ambiance of the tiny family run local restaurant. I ended my third day in San Francisco with a nap and then a quick drink at a nearby lounge (btw strawberry mojitos are not as good as lychee!) Dragged my tired old self to bed by 1 am.